There was
a time, as I recall, when the world was still being shaped by volcanoes
erupting everywhere so that the air smelt of sulphur and burnt rock; asteroids
and meteors crashed into the Earth’s crust creating more dust that shielded us
from the blistering rays of the sun’s heat.
The
atmosphere was mostly carbon dioxide that shimmered, when the sun could be
seen, in vast waves of distortion—heat that, for the most part, came off the
ground.
That ground
was barren, rocky and water free. Everything was dry and arid
I, too,
was young then—just in my mid-fifties, my formative years. But my time in Sudan
had come to an end and I returned to the cold, sub-arctic, conditions of
Scotland.
The
poverty in Sudan has been mentioned in a ‘Blog’ previously so we shall not
belabour that point again; perhaps because it is, even now, quite a painful
recollection.
There
were other things, odd things, that were in Sudan that deserve a mention
including one odd thing that has recently been repeated. Something that made my
head turn inside out.
Let us
set the scene.
While
working in Khartoum, Sudan, I had occasion to wander around during the weekends
to view various places and sample the local cuisine.
Our hotel
was the Hilton at (al-)Moghran, which means ‘The Confluence’. Indeed, it is
where the White Nile and the Blue Nile join forces and advance towards Egypt as
‘The Nile’.
The very
first weekend after arriving there, I set off to have a look at this ‘joining
of the rivers’ because I had heard that the two waters do not mix for a very
long stretch.
On
arriving at the bridge over the Nile I was greeted by a small soldier in a big
uniform carrying an AK47 assault rifle.
He made
me understand that there would be no taking of photographs or my camera would
be confiscated.
Apart
from the fact that I wasn’t carrying a camera there was just the tiniest
principle that we, the British, had built the bridge and that the plans were,
very likely, extant in London somewhere so the prohibition on me taking
photographs was somewhat pointless.
This
concept was wasted on the soldier, whose English was limited to ‘Halt’, so I
returned to the hotel to get my camera and wallet in order to get a bus into
Omdurman.
The
following Friday I was invited by a couple of my stalwart students—Abdurrazeem
and Mutaz, to go to the Masjid in South Khartoum for Friday prayers.
The
Masjid (Mosque) we attended was way out in the wilds somewhere. A great drive
through the countryside and flocks of goats and people.
Always
poverty.
On
arrival, the Masjid was plain. Nothing hugely decorative about it, just blank
sandstone surrounded by a wall.
An old
man came to me, introduced himself and said that he would be my interpreter.
How kind. He looked old enough to have known Abraham personally but he was a
lovely person who dropped me deep into trouble later*!
While we
were chatting a person of Pakistani origins approached us. He spoke to me.
“Name?”
he said.
“David
Leyman,” I replied.
He
frowned and walked off, back to a group of fellow Pakistanis. All of whom, it
was explained, lived here in the Masjid quarters.
A few
minutes later he returned.
“Naim?”
he asked.
“It is
still David,” I assured him.
The old
man interceded to ask the Pakistani why he wanted my name. There was a lengthy
conversation that resulted in the old man telling me that my name was not the
query. I was being asked if I knew ‘Naim’ (Naa-eem).
Further
information revealed that this Naim person was a long-time school friend of the
Sudan based Pakistani who had recently travelled to Scotland.
I tried
to explain that Scotland was, as places go, not very big but that I do not know
everyone there. The response was that Naim had gone to Dundee.
Light
bulb goes on in my head.
“Is he,”
I wanted to know, “the Ustaz [Teacher] at the Masjid in Alexander Street?”
“Yes,
Yes! That’s it,” uttered with great joy.
“I know
him well,” I told the Pakistani fellow, “He is teaching my son and I how to
read the Qr’an in Arabic.”
Travelled
all the way to Khartoum to meet a Pakistani from Lahore who was a school friend
with my teacher in Dundee, Scotland!
Sometimes
you just have to wonder!
Just now
I mentioned Egypt. It is the place where the two Niles, in concert, flow to in
order to spread water for agriculture and horticulture.
My
neighbour, here in Kuala Lumpur, is a splendid fellow from Egypt. He is called
Ali, his wife—a sweet lady, is called Fatimah.
He does
not live here all the time, rather he holidays here in the house he has bought
beside mine. He is chatty, witty, intelligent and, therefore, great company.
Today I
met him for the first time following his return to these shores yesterday. We
chatted, as you do, outside the gate under the trees where there is a light
breeze and shade.
I
explained to him that I have sent many e-mails to him because we were concerned
for them following the recent troubles in Egypt; there had been no
reply—fuelling our concerns.
“Oh, no,”
he told me, “We are perfectly safe. It is that we have moved to Karachi in
Pakistan so we have been out of contact for a while.”
“Karachi?
I have a friend from here who works in Karachi. He is called Saffian.”
“Yes,
Saffian,” Ali tells me, nodding, “He is from near here—Wangsa Maju.”
My brain
started to gel into something like sago pudding.
“Are we
talking about the same Saffian? His wife is Juliana?”
“Indeed,”
he says, “He is coming here soon—December, probably, because his daughter is
getting married. He is my colleague at work in the Karachi office.”
And so.
An Egyptian neighbour of mine, now living in Malaysia, moves to Karachi in Pakistan and
works with a friend of mine from two miles away from here in Kuala Lumpur.
Unbelievable.
Does this
happen to everyone?
[* See next 'Blog'!]
Thank you David, for my one minute of fame! It's a small world indeed, and I've had quite a few of such experience in the past...
ReplyDeleteKeep the photos coming - I'll keep Ali occupied.
Delete